Wreckless, from Red Willow brewery, is reviewed by Chris Hall.
Wreckless
Red Willow Brewery
ABV 4.8%
If the name seems familiar, it’s probably because I reviewed Red Willow’s Feckless a few weeks back. Where Feckless is a straightforward, high-quality English bitter, Wreckless proves to an equally impressive and fabulously different kettle of fish. That isn’t an Isinglass joke.
Wreckless is a beautiful gold, bordering on amber, and keeps its head well, but doesn’t offer a lot of it. Fresh citrus, cookies, grapefruit and lychee take turns luring you in for a taste. As aromas go, it’s one of the most simple yet appetising I’ve smelled.
The flavour profile is a veritable dessert trolley. First up we have toffee pudding, followed quickly by lemon cheesecake and – why not – some key lime pie. There’s even room for a zesty and palate cleansing lemon and grapefruit sorbet. Just as you get your wallet out, the finish then leaps out from under the table, brandishing a platter of pineapple, mango and passionfruit.
Wreckless is a gentle, exceptionally well balanced and super-quenching pale ale. It’s refined, easy going but also rewarding with measured sips. So much flavour in a quenching, sub-five-per cent beer is to be lauded, and enjoyed whenever possible.
