Duchy Originals Organic Golden Ale is reviewed by Chris Hall.
“Golden ale, definition: this.”
Duchy Originals Organic Golden Ale
Marston’s Brewery (under contract)
ABV 4.2%
Duchy is a foundation/initiative thingy that has been set up by the Price of Wales to promote organic produce. It is currently working with Waitrose to showcase good British organic food and drink, including a range of ales. The ales are all brewed under contract by Marston’s in Burton-on-Trent, and the Organic Golden Ale is a refreshingly straightforward and well-finessed example of British golden ale.
If I don’t use superlatives to describe this beer, it’s not because it isn’t good. It’s more of a dictionary definition of Golden Ale really, from its colour to its taste. The liquid is the exact shade of Golden Ale that appears on the Dulux Beer Colour Chart (not available in shops). Its head is tight, exactly enough and lasts well. There’s lovely smells of freshly baked bread, digestives, a little bit of lime and maybe a smidgen of pepper.
Organic British Wheat, Fuggles and Goldings hops have been used to brew this beer, and the use of wheat is evident in both that lovely bready aroma and the almost creamy, mouth-coating texture of the liquid. Normally Fuggles and Goldings would steal the show with lip-puckering British Bitterness ™, but the body is light and frisky enough to stay refreshing throughout. It’s sweet, fresh-tasting and dry, with an almost cloying finish by English ale standards.
It’s just a very drinkable, smooth and refreshing golden ale. It would never embarrass itself by trying to be outlandish or even particularly remarkable. It’s just getting on with it, keeping its head down and getting the job done. Golden ale, definition: this
